Plain-language answers about car batteries for Lower Mainland drivers: what goes wrong, why, and what to do about it.
Eight simple checks to do before the first cold, wet stretch so you are not stuck in a parking lot in December.
Vancouver winters are not extreme, but damp cold is still hard on an ageing battery. Here is why.
The sound your car makes when you turn the key tells you a lot. Here is how to read it before you call for help.
A new battery will not fix a bad alternator. Here are the clues that help you tell the two apart.
If the car was fine last night and dead this morning, something kept drawing power. Here are the usual causes and how to narrow them down.
The right order of the cables matters. Here is the safe way to do it, and when you should not try.
Heading away for a week or two? A few simple steps make a flat battery much less likely when you get back.
White or blue crust on the terminals can stop a good battery from starting your car. Here is how to clean it safely.
Slow cranking, dim lights, a swollen case — here is what to watch for before you are stranded.
Newer vehicles increasingly need AGM batteries. Here is what that means and why it matters.
The honest answer: it depends on climate, driving habits and the battery itself.
Cars that shut the engine off at red lights ask a lot more of the battery. Here is what to know.
On many newer vehicles, the car needs to be told that a new battery was installed. Here is why.
Group size, CCA, reserve capacity and the date code, explained in plain language.
Hybrids and electric vehicles still rely on a small 12-volt battery, and when it fails the car can be completely dead.
On some older cars it is a ten-minute job. On many newer ones it is not. Here is how to tell which kind you have.
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